
2021 Peay Vineyards Elanus Estate Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast
With over 140 barrels of Pinot Noir picked in 32 separate blocks and made into 32 individual wines, how does Vanessa choose just four barrels of Pinot Noir to make the Elanus Pinot? A fair question. It ain’t easy.
Vinous Review - 96 pts
Wine Advocate - 96 points
With a graduated cylinder in hand, Vanessa painstakingly labors over potential Elanus blends all spring. The goal is to capture the singular expression of the Estate vineyard in that vintage. Hmm, we make four Pinot Noirs from Peay Vineyard (and a fifth, Cep). Is there a “singular” expression? I think there is. There is a harmony of fruit, floral, and earth aromas that deliver a graceful yet intense, complex wine. There are aromas in the Elanus Pinot Noir found in each Estate bottling (Ama, Scallop Shelf and Pomarium) as portions of the “best” barrel from each of those blends are in the Elanus Pinot. When put together the overall impression reveals something unlike all its individual parts.
And, what is that? There is more depth of flavor and brooding intensity than you usually find in Scallop Shelf, though it has the high tone citrus aroma and nervy acidity of that wine. The depth of flavor found in Pomarium is certainly found in Elanus but the fruit expression leans more into a sexy smoked, black cherry rather than plum skin flavors. The floral aroma and lead mineral character of Ama is found in Elanus yet there is more ballast and depth. Just more. And not more as in more oak, more fruit, more alcohol. Just more depth and intensity and length. The wine just keeps coming.
I once found myself arguing that I preferred premier cru red Burgundy to grand cru red Burgundy as premier cru was prettier and brighter (and, well, I used to be able to afford it though that ship has sailed for the most part). It is true that many grand crus can be over the top and disjointed when drunk in their first ten years. But there is a reason these wines have been classified as the best of their region. There is usually more going on and more that will go on as they age and fill out their potential. The singularity of that small parcel will emerge and taste like nothing else. That is not the case with the 2021 Elanus Pinot Noir. It is a wine made from mature 23-year-old vines in an exceptional vintage yet it does not require long bottle aging to strut its stuff. It is excellent right now – with your Thanksgiving or Christmas meal, perhaps – and it will be for the next 10 to 20 years. If you like Peay Pinot Noir, this is a wine you must try. 95 cases produced.