2023 Peay Vineyards Ama Estate Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast

You may have heard the old saw that great Pinot Noir should have “body without weight.” I share that perspective and am stunned and impressed by the ethereal elegance of the 2023 Ama Pinot Noir. Ama is usually our most fruit-forward of our Estate Pinot Noirs (Savoy is the most fruit-oriented of all our Pinot Noirs). Not in 2023. In aroma, transparency, and weight, Ama presents like Gamay, Trousseau, or Nebbiolo grown in the Gattinara region of Italy. The aroma bursts with tell-tale Ama cherry and apple skin notes with hints of pomegranate sneaking in. A touch of dried pine needle/forest floor and lead pencil frame the bright, playful fruit aromas. The wine has mouth-watering acidity and for Pinot Noir is decidedly perfumed and light on its feet. With a half-hour decant the mid-palate fills out and gains some heft. This wine is gorgeous right now and will age gracefully but perhaps not for twenty years like previous vintages as it is charming, bright, and fresh and that is its strength.